Since I wasn’t sleeping well, I got up early and managed to shower, shave etc., using the utilities as provided with some preplanning and engineering. All went smoothly. The observation car was a very modern car with big windows on the sides and curving glass so one could view at the mountains above.
It seemed to take forever to get out of Denver. The beautiful Denver Union Station is having a huge makeover, so now there is just a small station ensconced in the middle of the busy Union Pacific rail years. It was interesting in that the train was parked near Coors Field, home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team and we saw some of the San Diego Padres players coming into the stadium for a day game and signing autographs. While sitting there, Amtrak workers washed the windows of the observation car. They were certainly catering to those who travel this line.
Waiting to leave Denver, next to Coors Field , home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team.
The California Zephyr is known to many in Europe as an excellent way to see the US, and the trip from Denver to San Francisco is considered the most scenic train route in the country. One British couple was chatting with another couple who commented on being on the “boring” plains and prairies so long. This couple actually though it was wonderful to get a full perspective of the great sea of grass and crops. “I don’t think many of us from other countries can fathom the vastness of this country. I went to bed looking at prairies and woke up still seeing them. It was incredible!” It’s great as an American to hear perspectives from foreigners who appreciate our country!
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Finally the train pulled away and started its upward journey toward the Front Range. I knew what we were in for as I had watched trains many times with my grandmother as we made our way to her cabin near Pinecliffe, Colorado. Colorado Highway 72 heads in the same direction as the tracks that Amtrak now follows (Union Pacific owned). Because the trains must ascend a steep grade to actually get into the mountains, the tracks follow a series of switch backs. I found myself giving a commentary to about 8-10 people near me pointing out the fact that our train would be “way up there” where we could see cuts in the mountains as they pushed out of the great plains. There are about four horseshoe switchbacks that help the trains make the grade. Once the ascent is made, the train crosses the highway over a bridge and then enters the first of 28 tunnels that we went through prior to going through the 6.2 mile long Moffat Tunnel.
The train makes its way up the switchbacks west of Denver in order to get into the mountains. (Shooting good photos through train windows isn't always the easiest thing to do). The last photo above shows the train crossing Colorado 72. As kids we used to watch trains from here on our way to my grandmother's cabin. Below, the observation car passes over the highway, showing where where we would be watching from. The buildings are an area road maintenance site.
Last of the highway for several miles.
After crossing the highway, we no longer see it until we reach the tiny town of Pinecliffe forty minutes later. Instead, unveiled between the tunnels, we see some of the best scenery in Colorado. The Front Range contains mountains that were pushed nearly straight up beginning about 300 million years ago by a uplift of sediment where horizontal rock layers now pointing to the sky. They eventually settled, then about 30 million years ago rose again. Streams eventually cut away the sediment and left the valley free of sediment and exposed much of the granite. The Front Range mountains stretch from Casper, Wyoming to Pueblo, Colorado.
A last look at the Great Plains from the Front Range.
Eventually we see Gross Dam, which is the largest reservoir for the City of Denver. Denver relies heavily on water coming out of the mountain snow packs and collected in a series of reservoirs. The Boulder and the South Boulder Rivers flow into Gross Reservoir. Eventually we see the South Boulder River raging below. This is the river that also flows by the property my grandmothers owned.
Gross Dam and Reservoir
When she built the cabin in 1952 along Highway 72, the river and tracks, the river was full of large boulders which the water bounced off as it made its way toward the Great Plains. In order to speed water flow into the Gross Reservoir, the big boulders were bulldozed to the side and beloved spruce that hung over the river there eliminated. The river looks nice today, but I know that at one time it was more beautiful.
Between tunnels we get excellent views of larger peaks such as Long’s Peak along the continental divide. The heat and still high angle of the sun continues to melt anything at their more than average of 11,000 feet.
Long's Peak, along the Continental Divide
As we pass through the last of the 28 tunnels, we quickly make our way to tiny Pinecliffe. It is one mile from the former Woodward property. Pinecliffe consists of just a few houses and what used to be the local post office and general store. Both are closed now.
As a kid spending parts of my summer at my grandmother’s cabin, Pinecliffe meant a lot. I mailed post cards home (still have one) there, and occasionally was allowed to purchase a soft drink or candy. And, of course, once we crossed the tracks at Pinecliff…we had exactly one mile to go to the drive way of the cabin…seemingly sacred ground to the Woodward family!
The train crosses Colorado 72 and through tiny Pinecliffe
The train now makes it way now in the valley near the river. Besides the river and highway, there is a large stand of spruce and a couple homes between the train and a view of the cabin. I am able to only get a 3 second glance of the former cabin, which is now surrounded by large additions on each end. It is now a permanent home, rather than a basic log cabin for a summer retreat. They have kept the original log cabin exposed. I was able to visit it a few years ago…which is another interesting, but long story!
Highway 72 breaks off straight west. The tracks and the river stay side by side to the southwest toward East Portal of the Moffat Tunnel. The 6.2 mile tunnel under the continental divide took five years to build and the first train traffic went through in 1928. Railroad connections through the tunnel shortened the distance between Denver and the Pacific coast by 176 miles. It also allowed some water from the western slope to go through a parallel water tunnel toward Denver.
I recall two different times walking from the road up to the East Portal and waiting to see a train either go in or come out of the tunnel. Little did I know then as a youngster that I would be going through there as a retiree on a nationalized railway!
The engineer asks all to stay in their seats and not go between the cars, as it would let in diesel fumes and coal dust (there must be coal in this deep tunnel!) while we passed though. It took several minutes. Eventually daylight and the west side of the continental divide.
In this Amtrak furnished photo, the California Zephyr enters 6.2 mile long Moffat Tunnel. Note the brilliant yellow Aspen leaves. Unfortunately they weren't that great when we went through.
The train arrives at Fraser, Colorado, serving Winter Park and Granby…good ski areas. You might hear of Fraser frequently, as it is often the coldest place in the continental U.S. many days a year. Cold air from the west settles against the high mountains and drops down on the town at night.
Train stop in Fraser, Colorado
The train route now continues west and follows first the Fraser River, then the Colorado River, which is formed from water coming out of Estes Park. It, of course, is the famous river that helped form the Grand Canyon in Arizona.
This is the area where you see the beautiful Aspen trees. The third week of September is often the best week to see them in their yellow splendor. This year, they are about a week behind, as there has not been much cold weather yet. It wasn't a total disappointment, but not one hopes for on this trip this time of year.
Bright yellow Aspen trees amongst the pine and spruce. They sometimes are called "quaking Aspen" because when the wind lightly blows them, the leaves seem to "shimmer" or "quake" in the wind.
We get good views of the widening river along the way, replete with rafters and fishermen. The train follows the famous Glenwood Canyon, a narrow rock-walled passage containing just the river and the railway bed. No highway. Eventually the train makes its way to Glenwood Springs.
The train makes its way along the Colorado River. Part of the way trains and Interstate 70 share the canyon.
Many years ago, wife Kathy, our then almost three-year-old daughter and I met my brother Dale and wife Jean who had traveled from the West Coast on Amtrak. We rented a condo in the next town up the Interstate, Avon, Colorado for about a week and enjoy sites and activities in the area including rafting the Colorado River. It was a great time for our two families.
Years earlier, my grandmother and I spent a day and night there partaking of the huge mineral hot springs pool in the town center. We had spent much of the day climbing the Hanging Lake trail (which I saw a sign for along the Glenwood Canyon stretch). We were ready for the warming, healthful waters in Glenwood Springs after the hike!
Glenwood Springs station.
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The western slope, or western Colorado, does not contain the peaks and breathtaking scenery of the eastern slope or Front Range, although it has a beauty of its own. After Glenwood Springs, we now see more mesas with occasional mountains in the background. The land becomes more arid, thus fewer tree trees and less vegetation. Part of the area contains huge amounts of tar sands, which one day may be a major source of our nation’s energy.
The terrain of western Colorado smooths out some compared to central Colorado. Mesas and lower rolling mountains are the norm.
The early and long day has begun to catch up with me and I retire from a long day in the observation car, and the meeting of more interesting people, including three couples from North Caroline all celebrating summer anniversaries and making their way to Napa Valley for a week in Wine Country.
Most of Day 2 was spent in the observation car.
After a quick nap and stretching my legs out, I eventually made it to another great meal in the Dining Car with interesting people.
In the evening, as I worked on my computer, writing and other projects, I sought my iPhone charger cord to transfer some music from the computer to the phone and could not find the cord. I spent the next two hours going through everything I owned, looking under seats and retracing steps on the train and asking various train employees if one had been turned in. I never did find it.
Since you cannot lock your roomette, (you can pull the drapes and close the door), you do have to be somewhat careful about leaving valuable valuables. (I am sure the cord was lying on the seat, but didn’t think anyone would take it. However, after spending a lot of time trying to find a duplicate once I arrived, I see how someone might spot it and want it. I could not find one exactly like it, but was able to buy an aftermarket one at the AT&T store in Bakersfield).
Because I lost all this time searching, I did get behind on my “diary.” It was off to bed (the car attendant prepared the bed at 11 p.m.) for what hopefully would be a better night’s sleep.
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